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Find the RAW + JPEG pairs filling your SSD

· 4 min read

If your camera is set to RAW + JPEG, every frame writes twice. A 30 MB Sony ARW next to a 8 MB JPEG. A 100 MP Fuji X-T5 RAF next to a 12 MB JPEG. For a wedding photographer with 3,000 frames per shoot, that's 90+ GB per gig — and most of it is sitting on your local SSD long after the JPEGs were the only ones you actually used.

Why generic dedup tools miss these

A Sony ARW and its in-camera JPEG are visually identical but their file bytes are completely different. Standard checksum-based tools (MD5, SHA-256) treat them as unrelated. Tools that only do perceptual matching within a format never even compare them.

The signal you actually want is "these two files contain the same image." That's what Dup computes — a perceptual hash on the decoded pixels, regardless of the source format.

Supported RAW formats

HEIC is also matched against JPEG / RAW — useful if you shoot iPhone alongside your main body and want to dedupe location-event photos across devices.

Typical workflow

1. Point Dup at your shoot folder

Drop the folder on the app, or browse to it. Works on external drives — useful if you offload to a Samsung T7 and want to clean before importing to Lightroom.

2. Review the RAW ↔ JPEG groups

Dup groups every frame with its sibling. You see the resolution, file size, and format side by side.

3. Smart Auto-Keep picks the format you use

Tell Dup once whether your workflow is RAW or JPEG-first. Auto-Keep marks the keeper across thousands of groups in seconds. Review, then delete.

4. Undo if you change your mind

Deletions go to a staged folder before the system Trash. Restore any file within the 30-day window.

Privacy

Every comparison happens on your Mac. No file content, thumbnails, or metadata leaves the machine. This matters specifically for unreleased shoots — Dup will never upload anything to a cloud service, full stop.

Try it on one shoot

Free up to 250 MB of deletions without a Pro license — enough to test on a real folder.